Sewing-machine.



l. BERGER.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED DEC- 5. 1916 Patented Oct 15, 1918.

6 SHEETS-SHEET l.

1. BERGER.

SEWING MACHINE. A FPLICA1:IOI F| LED DEC- 5. INS.

Patented Oct. 15, 1918.

8 SHEETS SHEET 2.

l. BERGER.

SEWING MACHINE. I APPucmou FILED are. s. 14 5. r r 1,281,900. Patented 0013.15, 1918.

5 SHEETSr-SHEET 3-,

' I. BERGER. SEWING moms, APPLICATION FILED Pam's. 1am.

Patented Oct 15, 1918.

twins-SHEET 4,

J. BERGER.

SEWING MACHINE APPLICATION FILED Mus. Ismsv Patented Oct. 15, 1918 O SHEETS-SHEET 5 v. I ll \M LBERGER. SEWlNG MACHINE. APPLICATIGN HLE D MEG, 5. I91 6 Patented Oct. 15, 1918.

l WHITE-SHEET I UNITED OFFICE."

JOSEPH nausea, or UTICA, new You, nucleon rro UNION srncmiucnnm comm, o r cn1caco, rumors, aeomu'rron or mmuors.

sswmmmacmms' Bpebiflcatlon of Letters latent,

Patented Oct. 15, 1918.

To all 'whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, Josnrrr BERGER, a zen of the United States, residin at Utica,

' in the county of Oneida, State of ew York,

' ing, which have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines, of which the followin is a description, reference being had to tie accompanying drawing and to the figures of reference marked thereon.

The invention relates to new and useful improvements in sewing machines and more particularly to a sewin machine for trimming and uniting fabric sections.

An object of'the invention is to provide a sewin machine of the above character wherein the edge portions of the fabric sections may be trimmed and united by stitchnot only joins the edge portions of the fabric but also covers the trimmed ed es thereof.

further object of the invention is to machine, of the above character provide a be used for joining a collaret strip which ma to the neo of a garment and also for shaping the collaret strip as it is stitched to the garment. v I These and other objects will in part be obvious and will in part be hereinafter more fully disclosed.

' In the-drawings, which show b way of illustration, one embodiment of t e invention:-

Figural is a front view of a machine-embodymg my improvements;

Fig. 2 is a rear view of the same;

'Fig. 3 is a view part1 in plan and partly .in horizontal section t rough the machine above the presser foot; y a

Fig. 4 is a view'partly in end elevation and partly in vertical section substantially on the line of feed;

' Fig. 5 is a view artl in horizontal section and partly in p an t rough thesupporting bracket for the trimming mechanism;

Fig. 6 is a plan vview showing a part of the .work support and the throat plate;

Fig. 7 1s a perspective view of the throat late' p Fig.8 is a transverse-sectional view just in front of the trimmers; r

. Fig. 9 is a transverse sectional view just (in front of the stitchingmechanism;

1 Fi 10 is a transverse sectional view on a citinormal plane after which Fig. 11 is a perspective view showing a part of the stitching mechanism, the cross thread laying mechanism and the trimming mechanism and also the work support;

Fig. 12 is a perspective view showing more or less diagrammatically the manner of placing the edge portions and trimming the same, returning said edge portions to normal position and joining the same by stitchwhich covers t e trimmed edges of the fabric sections.

While my machine may be used for trimming and uniting fabric sections of any character, it is especiall adapted for the stitching of a collaret strip to the neck portion of a garment.

The stitching mechanism consists referably of spaced needles, a cross thread a ing mechanism for joining the needle threa s on the upper face of the material and a looper for joining the needle threads on the; lower face of the material. The material is held on the work support by a presser' foot which is formed with a slotso that the edge ortions tobe united may be turned out o the plane of the fabric sections and led into said slot in theforward end of the presser foot.

A horizontally disposed trimmiri mecha nism located in advance of the nee es, trims the'upturned edges. The presser foot is provided with a guide which positively forces one of the trimmed edge" portions, preferably the neck of a garment, back into its another guiding portion of the presser foot turns downthe other ZIiItO the first named edge portion. These gc disposed a certain distance above the work support in proportion to the space between-1 the needles so that while. the ed portions overlap, they are located wholly within the edge portion, that is, the collaret strip,

portions overlap and the trimmer is limits of the stitching mechanism and, there: fore, the edge portions will be o1ned"andL-. the edges thereof covered by the stitching,

In uniting the collaret strip to. the neck of a garment, the collaret strip is folded between its side edges so that the edge por-f These superposed shaping the collaret as it is stitched to the garmenty Referring more in detail to the drawings, I have embodied my invention in a sewing machine which is provided with the usual bed plate 1, carryinga standard 2, supporting an overhanging arm. 3, in which the needle bar 4 reciprocates. This needle bar carries .two needles 5 and 6. The needle bar is reciprocated by a lever 7 through a pitman or eccentric rod 8 which cooperates with an eccentric on the main shaft 9. Cooperating with the needles beneath the work support is a looper 10, which is mounted on a looper carrier 11 and this looper carrier is oscillated by a link 12 which is connected to the needle lever extension 13. The looper carrier is pivotall mounted on a looper support 14, and this ooper support is oscillated for giving theusual needle avoiding movements to the looper. The looper cooperates with both needles and, therefore, the looper thread joins the needle loops beneath the.

materials v The material to be stitched is carried by a work support 15 which is provided with a "throat plate 16. This throat plate has two needle "openings 17 and 18 for the needles 40 5 and '6, respectively. Between theneedle openings is a stitch supporting tongue 19. The throat. plate is formed with slots 20 which receive the feeding devices. These feeding devices include a feed bar 22 which 45 is reciprocated from the usual feedrocker and is raised. and lowered by an eccentric 23 on the shaft 9. A differential feeding mechanismis preferably used whereinone feed dog is in advance ofthe other and has material is held on the work support by a a threadhook which is pivoted at 31 to 65 the bracket 29.. The shank'of the thread 50' adifierent. movement relative thereto. The" l I presser foot 24 which iscarried by a presser from the fin 48.

:hookis provided'with an arm 32 which is connected by a link 33 to a lever 34. This lever 34 is pivoted to the bracket 29 and the outer end of, the lever is connected to a link 35 which is attached to an arm 36 depending from a shaft 37 carried by suitable earings in the overhanging arm. The shaft is oscillated by means of a pitman or eccentric rod 38. which cooperates with 'an eccentric on the main shaft. This serves as a means for oscillating the hook so that it crosses the line of feed and engages the cross thread after which the hook returns, forming a loop in the cross thread which is entered by the needle farthest from the fixed.

thread. guide. In this manner the cross thread is looped about the two needle threads, connecting the same on the upper surface ofthe material.

The trimming mechanism consists of a stationary trimming blade 39 which is fixed to the presser foot and a movable trimming blade 40 which cooperates with said stationary trimming blade. This movable blade 40 is carried by an arm 41 which is fixed to a sleeve 42 and this sleeve 42 carries an arm 43 which is connected to a link 44. The link 44 is pivotally connected to an arm 45 mounted on a shaft 46 and this shaft 46 is oscillated by a pitman 47 cooperating with an eccentric on the mainshaft.

Mounted on the throat plate is a vertical fin 48 which extends into the slot 27 in the presser foot. This fin is tapered. toward the and the rear lower end extends underneath the trimming blade but terminatesdirectly in rear thereof. The presser foot is formed of a fixed section 49 and a yielding section 50. The front portion of the yielding sec tion '50 is capable of lateral adjustmenttoward and from the fin 48. The fixed section 49 is provided with an adjustable portion 51 which may be moved. toward and This adjustable feature of the presser foot provides a means for varying the width of the-slot into which the fin extends and on either side of the fin.

In Fig. 11 of the drawin I have shown a collaret strip being stitc ed to the neck of a garment. The collaret strip isindicated at S while the garment is indicated at F. The collaret strip isfolded intermediate its side edges and the edge portions thereof are superposed. These edge portions are turned up out of th'e plane of the collaret strip and together with the upturned edge portion of the. body fabric F are led into the slot 27 The trimmer trims these upturnededge portions and the trimmed ofi' portions, indicated at .T, are (16-1 flected away from the stitching mechanismby a strip deflector-52.

The presser foot'is provided with a guide 53 which. projects laterally therefrom into *the body fabric and underneath the slot 27 and this guide 53 is shaped so as to force the upturned trimmed edge of the body fabric F back into the plane of the upturned portions of the collaret strip. The slot 27, as willbe noted, terminates in of the needles and the rear end of this slot'turns down the edge portion of the col laret strip onto the turned down portion of the body fabric and these trimmed edge gntions are overlapped, as clearly shown in g. 12 of the drawings. The trimming blades are arranged at a proper distance .above the throat plate so that when the edges are turned down and overlapped said edges will still be within the limits of the stitching mechanism, that is, pass between the needles so that the needle 5 will pass through the collaret strip only, while the needle 6 passes through the body fabric only. The cross thread and the looper thread join the needle threads and unite the collaret strip and the neck portion ofthe I strip has been tapered.

- raised so that the garment and these stitching threads not only unite the fabric sections but cover the trimmed edges thereof.

. As clearly shown in Fi 11, the collaret T e end of the collaret strip is indicated at, As this end is presented to the trimming mechanism it is trimmin members befi'ln to trim the stri at the fold therein. e strip is gradua 1y lowered as the stitching proceeds and this results in tapering the end of the strip. When the other end of thelcollaret strip is reached it will be again raised and the end thereof ta red.

From the above it wil i be apparent that I have provided a sewing machine for uniting fabric sections wherein the edge portions to be united are turned out of the plane of the fabric sections and the upturned portions trimmed after which one of the trimmed edges is forced down underneath the other trimmed edge portion and the trimmed edge portions thus'returned to the plane of the v.fabric sections in overla ped relation. These overlapped edge portions are then secured by stitching, which not only unites said edge, portions but which covers the trimmed edges of the fabric sections. The vertical fin aids in the guiding of the upturned portions to the trimming mechanism and the adjustable sections of the presser foot may be shifted so as to provide suitable clearance only for. the fabric sections which are being joined.

thicknesses, as

then the portion 51 of the-foot is adjusted a sufiicient distanceaway from the fin to accommodate the double thickness of the a material.

- details ofconstru'ction ma front gives suflicient clearance for the easy manipulation of the fabric sections which are being stitched.

It is obvious that minor changes in the be madewithout departing from the splrit of the invention as set forth in the a pended claims.

Having thus described e invention, what is claimed as new is i 1. The combination of stitching mechanism adapted to form covering stitches,.a trimmi mechanism located in advance of the stitc ing mechanism for trimming the edges of fabric sections to be united, means for directing the fabric sections to the trimming mechanism with the edge portions turnedout of the plane of the fabric sections, and means located between the triming mechanism and the stitching mechanism for returning the trimmed edge portions to the plane of the fabric sections and with the trimmed edge rtions overlap and within the limits of the stitching mec a-' of fabric sections leadingthrough'said slot will be trimmed, said prwser foot having means in rear' of the ,trimming mechanism for overlapping the trimmededge portions within the limits of the stitching mechanism whereby said overlapped trimmed edge portions will be joined and covered by stitching.

3'. The combination of stitching mechanism adapted to form ,covering stitches, a

a needle,

work support, a resser'foot having a needle opening and a s ot in front thereof opening at the frontof the resser foot, a fin on the work support extending into said slot, a

horizontal trimming, mechanism including a movable blade crossin said slot whereby upturned edges of fabric sections directed into said slot by said fin will be trimmed,

said presser foot having means .for posi-- tively forcing one of said trimmedfedge portions I edge portions will be overlapped within the limits of the daitchin mechanism sothat 4.The combination of stitching mechanism adapted to form-covering. stitches, a work support, a resser foot havi a needle opening anda 0t" in advance of t e needle opening foot, a horizontal trimming mechanism includi a movable blade crossing saidslot wh y the upturned edges of fabric secunderneath the other whereby said leading to the front of the presser.

a. said' edge portions wil be joined a'nd.cov-

. ered by stitching.

When one of the fabric sections is of two in the case of a collaret strip.

' lapped relation.

tions leading through said slot will be trimmed, aguide carried .by the presser foot and extendinginto said slot, said guide being disposed so as to crowd one of the trimmed edge portions underneath the other whereby said edge portionsinay be returned to the plane of the fabric sections in over- 5. Thecombination of stitching mechanism adapted to form 'coveringstitches, a

work support, a presser foot having a needle opening and a. slot in advance of the needle opening leading to the front of the presser foot, a horizontal trimming mechanism including a movable blade crossin said slot whereby the upturned edges of abric sections leading through said slot will be trimmed, a guide carried by the presser foot and extending into said slot, said guide being disposed so as to crowd one of the trimmed edge portions underneath the other whereby said edge portions will be returned to the planeof the fabric sections in overlapped relation, said trimming blades beingdisposed a distance above the work support so that the overlapped portions will lie within the limits of the stitchin mechanism whereby said fabric sections wil be trimmed, and the trimmed edges covered by stitching.

6. The combination of stitching mechanism adapted to form covering stitches, a work support, a presser foot having a needle opening and a. slot-in advance of the needle opening leading to the front of the presser foot, said presser foot being adjustable whereby the width of the slot may be va- 'ried, a horizontaltrimming mechanism ineluding a movable blade crossing said slot whereby the upturned sections of the fabric sections leading through said slot will be trimmed, and means carried by the presser foot in rear of the movable trimming blade for overlapping the trimmed edge portions within the limits of the stitching mechanism whereby said overlapped trimmed edge portions w1ll be 7. The combination of stitching mechanlsm adapted to form covering stitches, a work support, apresser foot having a needle opening and a slot in advance of the needle opening leading to the front of the presser t, a fin on the worksupport extending into said slot, said presser foot bein ad+ jllstable for varying the width of the s ot, a

horizontal trimming mechanism including a movable blade crossing said'slot whereby .mechanism includinga movable blade cross joined and covered by stitching.

the trimmed edge portions within the limits 7 of the stitching mechanism whereby said overlapped trimmed edge portionswillbe joined and covered by stitching.

8. The combination of. stitching mechanism including spaced needles, a cross thread laying mechanism, and a threaded looper cooperating with both needles-whereby covering stitches are formed, a work support, a presser foot having a, needle opening, and a slot in front thereof openin to the front of the presser foot, a fin on t. e work support extending into said slot, a horizontal trimming mechanism including a movable blade crossing said slot whereby the up turned edges of fabric sections leading through the said slot will be trimmed, said. presser foot having means in rear of the trimming mechanism for overlappin the trimmed edge portions within the limits of the stitching mechanism whereby said overlapped trimmed edge portions Wlllbe joined and covered.

.ing and a slot extending rearwardly from the front end thereof to a point in advance of said opening, a horizontal trimming ing said slot, whereby upturned edge portions of fabric sections fed rearwardly along said slot will be trimmed, and means dlsposed between the point of trimming and the stitch forming mechanism for positively guiding the trimmed edge portions into the general plane of the fabric sections and in overlapped relation. p

10. The combination of a stitch forming mechanism, a feeding mechanism, a work support, a presser foot having a needle opening and a slot extending rearwardly from the front end thereof to a point in 'ad- Vance of said opening, a horizontal trimming mechanism including a movable blade crossing said slot, whereby upturned edge portions ,of fabric sections ,fed rearwardly alongsaid slot will be trimmed, and sepa' rate means disposed between the point of trimming and the stitch forming mechanism for positively guiding the trlmmed edge portions into the general plane of the fabric sections and in overlapped relation.

In testimony whereof, I aflix my signa-' ture, in the presence of two witnesses.

JOSEPH BERGER.

Witnesses:

EannQCLAn 

